Uruguay is just across the Rio de la Plata from Argentina so on Monday we jumped on a ferry for a 3-hour trip to its capital, Montevideo. It was a comfortable ride over & we actually watched The Fighter on Esteban’s computer…great movie. Sitting by us we noticed an older crew of guys with lots of leather & sunglasses…we asked 1 of the guys what band they were…he told us, The Boys, a punk rock band that started in 70s or 80s from UK…they were playing a gig in M’video…interesting crew.
We got into town just before sunset & ended up walking instead of jumping in a cab…2 reasons: we didnt have Uruguayan pesos & a little walk would do us good. Thanks to a kid selling a map we found we could walk pretty easily to our hotel…turns out the map was for a gentleman’s club…kids’ gotta earn $ somehow these days & the map was helpful. So we walked thru the old town & 20 mins later were at our hotel. The lobby was new & nice, the room a little bigger than our others but rooms definitely on older side. We ended up walking a block over to a pasta restaurant & had a good meal…I was craving spaghetti & sauce after a week of minimal food. I had a small bottle of Uruguayan cabernet savignon…lets just say they are not that known for their wines yet. We ended up walking the main street for a little while but didnt see any place of interest. Its a little different than BA.
Montevideo
The next day we walked down into the old town, called Ciudad Vieja, which was much more lively during the day, with street vendors hawking all kinds of goods, all the stores open & people walking everywhere. We chilled at a good spot called Mercado de la Puerta (Port Market) to have a beer & people watch. Turns out the older couple at the table next to us where Americans so we asked where they were from (NoCal) & what they had planned here. Turned out they were in a travel group & were actually going to the same soccer game that night!! We couldnt believe it…we told them its not like a 49ers game…they would be in for a shock methinks. We ended up having lunch in a square right in town…of course people walking everywhere around us.
one of the main squares in Montevideo
Ciudad Vieja
We finished & headed back to the hotel to get ready for the game…about halfway Esteban realized he left his sunglasses on the table…again, as he had done in Bariloche…so back again to pick them up & ultimately back to the hotel..so we got some extra walking in. Kickoff was at 7:15 & I was thinking 6pm departure but he said “we dont need to go early, it should be easy to get there”…so we jumped in a taxi about 6:30 & in 15 mins were at the stadium. It was crowded all around but we didnt really know how many people would be at the game. We got hooked up by his guys in BA with free tix and on them was just a barcode & 1 number…Esteban thought that was the row (49)…I knew WAY better. The stadium, Estadio Centenario, holds close to 90,000 and was built in the 20s to host the 1st World Cup back in 1930…and this was a mid-week game in Copa Libertadores with Penarol in 1st place in the group of 4 & Independiente in last in the group. Well we realized what the crowd would be like as the cab dropped us off…we caught a glimpse of the stands which were raging full! We found our gate, walked up & had to hit the higher tier as the lower was full…and of course it was just general seating, not assigned…if you could even find a seat. We walked out the tunnel & the place was a cauldron! The entire stadium was packed & the fans were all in yellow & black going crazy jumping up & down, singing, lighting fireworks & flares & waving flags. WOW! We stood at the bottom of the stairs & had a nice view right at midfield. I dont think I’ve ever witnessed that type of environment, even with World Cup games…as this was 85,000+ Penarol fans plus 1 small section of Independiente fans tucked away safely.
I took some pics & vids but even they dont do the environment justice (notice Esteban’s reactions in 2 of the vids). The teams came out & the crowd swelled with emotion & got louder & then dropped one of the biggest banners ever created down from the top of the seats that covered almost 1 entire sideline plus behind 1 goal. Then it went back up swiftly & the teams kicked off in a haze of fog from the flares. In the craziness I grabbed a flare from a guy & lit it up as well…just kidding, but that would have been awesome. We kept laughing picturing that tour group of approximately 25 people at the game (the couple we met were probably around 60 & had never been to a professional soccer game…the guy just said that “everyone is a soccer mom now”). Do soccer moms do this for 2 hours straight?? (i’m sure the stadium was packed well before kickoff so might have been even 3+ hours).
Penarol dominated possession & was putting pressure on Independiente but couldnt get a breakthru. Then about midway thru the 1st half they had a bad giveaway in midfield, Indy countered & played a nice ball over the top that the forward ran onto with only the GK to beat…he did from just inside the 18 and they celebrated as the place remained mostly quiet, except for the couple hundred Independiente fans who were in red, dancing & banging their drums. Penarol continued to push but couldnt get any great chances even well into the 2nd half. With about 10 mins left Esteban threw out the idea of possibly getting a jump on the crowd leaving…we of course decided against it…and its a good thing as some drama popped up. First there were a couple good chances, then some pushing & shoving which got Penarols forward & Indy’s GK sent off (red cards)…both had made all their subs so Indy had to switch one of their field players into goal. Penarol had plenty of late chances but could not even test they guy who stepped in net, putting a couple over & wide & a free-kick into the wall…he is not a goalie for godsakes, put some shots on target! Independiente survived with a 1-0 win…bummer, we really wanted to see that place go wild when they scored. Exiting wasnt too bad as we just had to walk a bit before catching a cab. That night we had a late snack of some pizza pie & relaxed at a table outside on the main street.
Estadio Centenario
pregame
Wednesday was travel day back to Argentina & I realized the night before that we were on a bus to Colonia, then the ferry to BA…I really wanted to surprise Esteban with seeing the countryside 
A taxi dropped us at the station just 10 mins before check-in closed & the place was big & crazy…but we finally found the right spot & were good to go. It was a nice coach & pretty comfortable & I enjoyed looking out the window as we left the city, cruised the suburbs & into the countryside. 2 hours later we were in Colonia, jumped on the ferry & 1 hour later back in BA. Taxi back to our usual hotel & get ready for a few days here.
